Tomos Llewellyn
Ancient Wells and the First Cures
Long before the Romans arrived, Britain's natural springs were sacred. Chalybeate springs, rich in iron, and sulphur springs, smelling of rotten eggs, bubbled up from the ground. Ancient Britons threw offerings into wells, and many holy wells later became Christian sites. The Romans, practical as ever, built baths at Aquae Sulis – modern Bath – around AD 60. They recognised the therapeutic value of hot mineral water, and the temple of Sulis Minerva became a pilgrimage site for the sick. Other Roman spas included Buxton in Derbyshire, where the constant 27°C water still flows today.
The Georgian and Victorian Spa Boom
The real explosion came in the 18th and 19th centuries. Doctors prescribed "taking the waters" for everything from gout to melancholy. Inland resorts sprang up around springs: Bath, Cheltenham, Leamington Spa, Harrogate, Buxton, Matlock Bath, Royal Tunbridge Wells, and Malvern. Each had its own character. Bath offered Roman baths and elegant assembly rooms. Harrogate specialised in sulphur and iron waters, with a famous pump room. Cheltenham became fashionable after George III visited in 1788. Leamington Spa grew rapidly thanks to its saline waters. Tunbridge Wells, discovered in 1606, was a royal favourite.
The architecture was designed for promenading and seeing others. Pump rooms let you drink a glass of pungent water while listening to music. Assembly rooms hosted balls and card games. Pleasure gardens, colonnades, and crescents followed. The railway boom made these towns accessible to the middle classes. By 1900, most had a lido, a theatre, and a reputation for health and gentility.
What Made the Waters Special?
Each spa town had a different mineral profile, and locals swore by their particular blend. Broadly, the waters fell into a few types:
- Chalybeate (iron-rich) – said to build the blood; Tunbridge Wells and Harrogate were famous for it.
- Sulphur – pungent and purgative; Harrogate's sulphur wells were nicknamed "the stink".
- Saline – Leamington Spa and Cheltenham drew crowds for their salty, laxative waters.
- Thermal – Bath and Buxton had naturally hot water, rare in the UK.
- Radioactive – yes, really. Some springs, like those at Bath, contain tiny amounts of radon, once thought beneficial.
Modern science is sceptical of most claims, but the ritual of drinking, bathing, and resting certainly did no harm. And the placebo effect plus a holiday from smoky cities was genuinely restorative.
Decline and Revival
After the Second World War, the spa towns fell out of fashion. The NHS offered free healthcare, cheap flights took Britons to the Mediterranean, and the old pump rooms seemed dusty. Many closed. Bath's Roman baths were no longer for swimming. Buxton's natural baths shut in 1972. Harrogate's Royal Pump Room became a museum.
But since the 1990s, there's been a quiet revival. Public funding restored crescents and gardens. New spas opened, often in old buildings, offering modern treatments alongside historic waters. Wild swimming has exploded in popularity, and people are rediscovering the joy of cold, mineral-rich water. Towns like Bath, Buxton, and Harrogate now attract visitors for both history and wellness.
Wild Swimming in and Around Spa Towns
Many spa towns sit near rivers, lakes, or old lidos perfect for a dip. Wild swimming is not the same as a heated spa pool – it's cold, bracing, and you need to be sensible. Here's what to know:
- Check water quality – rivers can carry agricultural run-off or sewage. Look for local advice and avoid swimming after heavy rain.
- Never swim alone – cold water shock can affect even strong swimmers. Go with a buddy.
- Enter slowly – gasping and hyperventilating is normal. Wading in gradually helps.
- Respect the rules – some springs and wells are sacred sites; don't swim in them. Lidos and designated river spots are best.
- Bring a towel and warm layers – you'll cool down fast after you get out.
Good spots include the River Avon in Bath (though check currents), the lido at Ilkley near Harrogate, and the natural pools at Matlock Bath. In Buxton, you can swim in the old thermal waters at a modern spa, but for wild swimming, head to the River Wye nearby.
Ancient Wells and Modern Pilgrimage
Beyond the spa towns, Britain is dotted with holy wells. Chalice Well in Glastonbury, with its iron-red water, is one of the most famous. Clootie wells in Scotland and Ireland – where rags are tied to trees – remain active folk traditions. Many wells are on private land or in churchyards. Visit with respect: don't leave litter, don't take water without permission, and remember these are living spiritual sites for many people. If you're lucky, you might find a well that's still a place of quiet pilgrimage – a reminder that our urge to seek healing from the earth is very old indeed.
